Playa Palancar is the last beach club before the island runs out, at roughly kilometre 19.5 of the Carretera Costera Sur, about twenty-five minutes south of the cruise piers. Five kilometres up the road, Mr Sanchos and Paradise Beach are running buffets and swim-up bars for several thousand people. Here there is a curve of sand, a stand of coconut palms that throws genuine shade, a palapa restaurant, a row of loungers, a dive shop and a handful of boats pulled up on the beach. That is the entire proposition, and it is deliberately the entire proposition.
The distance is the point in two directions. Going south, it filters out most of the cruise crowd, who do not want to spend fifty minutes of a six-hour call in a taxi. Going west, it puts you closer to the reef than anywhere else with a beach under it. Palancar — the Gardens, the Caves, the Bricks, the Horseshoe — sits directly offshore. Colombia is a short run south. The El Cielo sandbar, the shallow starfish flat that every Cozumel photograph eventually shows, is about ten minutes out. Boats leave from the sand in front of you rather than from a marina an hour away.
What the beach does not have is shore snorkelling. The bottom in front of the club is sand and seagrass with scattered rock, and swimming out will not get you to the reef — the drop-off is well offshore and the channel current runs across it. If you want fish without a boat, the shore-snorkel clubs at kilometre 6.5 to 10 are where you go. If you want the reef Cozumel is actually famous for, you want a boat, and this is the shortest one on the island.
The day pass is modest, the restaurant is a real restaurant rather than a buffet line, and by mid-afternoon on a heavy ship day this place is still recognisably a beach rather than an event. That is worth the taxi fare.